New here, had some questions about a 383 stroker

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New here, had some questions about a 383 stroker

Post by 51Chevy »

Hey everyone, I'm looking to replace my l31 in my 98 k2500 with a 383. I can build motors and I'm not afraid to get dirty, but the tuning is looking overwhelming. I looked into the summit blueprint 383 stroker motor and wondered if anyone had bought one. I looked at the Gm ht383e but its out of my price range. So what I'm asking is if I get the blueprint will I have to tune it? Or, would it be better to build one myself?

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Post by silver97 »

Unless you install a stock engine a computer retune will be necessary to achieve your best performance. Check to see if that blueprint engine has a rollercam and a timing cover with a provision for the crank sensor. I priced out rebuilding my existing engine to 383 and it come out to less than $3000 assembling it myself using a balanced cast eagle rotating assembly with pistons, flexplate, rods and balancer. using the gm ht383e cam. I also priced it using the vortec block and heads from summit skipping the machine shop all together and it wasn't much more. Shipping on their block is $100 though. The engine should run with your existing computer but to make it run like it should contact Black Bear, pcms for less, or westers and they will hook you up.

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Post by playtoy_18 »

Did Eagle ever take care of the "bad batch" of 383 cranks that were breaking snouts off?

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Post by jrr344 »

I think LS is the way to go, I regret building a 383 with the money I have invested I could have easily bought a 6.0 and cam and made some cheap easy power.

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Post by stroker97k1500 »

playtoy_18 wrote:Did Eagle ever take care of the "bad batch" of 383 cranks that were breaking snouts off?
I still see posts of the "CAST" cranks breaking and have even seen the eagle brand forged crank breakage in the EXACT same spot. most were internally balanced from them as mine was. I think they have a tooling issue because all the breaks(that i have seen online) start in the same spot as mine did when it broke... which is right at the edge of the rod journal where the tool stops cutting the radius for the bearing surface.

I would say do not go with a 383 IF you are even remotely CONSIDERING a cast crank, even though i loved mine(before it broke the crank).... a 454 is cheaper and bolts right in, and the LS route is a good option also

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